Home » Equipment and Reviews mmen

Canon 5D Mark II Review – The Series – Part 4

28 December 2008 8 Comments

Depth of Field

This will be a short post…

There are a number of reasons why Full Frame can make a difference to a photographer's images. Perhaps the one most commonly cited is that compared with cropped sensors (1.5x, 1.6x etc as found in the Canon 40d / 50d, Nikon D300, etc), you get a larger sensor. A larger sensor means more space to fit pixels onto which means lower pixel density for the same number of megapixels, or more megapixels for the same density. The result therefore, in theory, should be higher megapixels, less noise, or both. In practice it's often true as well.

The other benefit of FF is that lenses work as they should. A 24mm lens on a Nikon D300 gives a field of view which is actually equivalent to a 36mm (1.5x) on a FF camera. So lenses work as they should and wide lenses look really nice and wide. Of course, there is the downside for sports / nature photograpers who want telephoto reach (and therefore like the multiplying effect). Of course there's the retort that higher megapixels in FF mean you can crop more later on anyway… but this is off topic.

What I really wanted to talk about was what I perceive to be the greatest benefit of FF – shallow depth of field. Shallow depth of field (DOF), when produced through good glass and a competent photographer, is one of the most creative tricks that can be applied in photography. In allows for subject isolation, for a dreamy effect to be applied, for a different perspective than what might be normally seen, or all of the above.

The best way to get shallow DOF is to shoot with fast glass. High ISO performance in modern cameras like the 5D Mark II is making fast glass less important. Now a photographer with a good camera and an f/5.6 lens can shoot at the same shutter speed as a photographer with an f/2.8 lens by going two stops higher in ISO. With a Nikon D3, Canon 5D Mark II or a handful of other cameras, that higher ISO does not always mean a worse picture. The speed that fast glass provides, and comes at such a price premium, is still important – but the importance is not what it was.

However, there's still no way to fake shallow depth of field (ignoring post processing). And that's where good glass comes in. It's so important to me in my photography that I shoot prime lenses 95% of the time. It's also so important to me that I do not ever consider switching back to Nikon due to the fact that Canon produces a 24mm f/1.4 and a 35mm f/1.4 and Nikon does not. And as I mentioned above, it's the most important benefit of Full Frame.

I don't shoot with shallow DOF all the time. Like any ingredient, too much of the same thing can be a bore. Subtlety and choice is the key. But having the right tools in the first place certainly helps. The reason I make a big deal about it here is because very rarely talked about in reviews. Again, with most things that are important in photography, there is no scientific way to measure it. And if you can't measure it, you can't draw a chart. The good news about prime lenses is that with most brands, you can buy a cheap 50mm f/1.8 to get started if you have not already. I preach the virtues of prime lenses in a previous post.

To give an idea of what Full Frame and a good lens gives you, here are a few examples. Again, no lens charts – just a few examples of why for most photography, full frame does offer a genuine benefit over just megapixels. These were all taken in the last few days with the 5D Mark II.

24mm f/1.4

IMG_1021   

ISO 200, f1/1.4, 1/400s. Converted from RAW, some minimal processing. I liked the distortion effect I was able to achieve with the wide angle as well.

35mm f/1.4

 

IMG_0649   

ISO 6400, f/1.4, 1/60s. Shot in JPG. With another system or camera this simple snapshot might have been is an impossible photograph. A glance at the settings (ISO 6400 and f/1.4) should give an indication as to how little was available. The subject isolation caused here is quite remarkable (it almost looks like selective sharpening which it is not).

50mm f/1.4

Although there is a faster and more expensive 50mm f/1.2, I shoot with the f/1.4. I've provided two examples here with the 5D Mark II.

IMG_1364 

ISO 320, f/1.6 (so not quite wide open), 1/320s. Shot in RAW and converted with little processing to speak of.

IMG_1410 

ISO 500, f/1.4, 1/100s. Shot in RAW and converted. A bit of processing on the colours but not much else. Composed in live view with the camera near the ground. I liked the swirling bokeh in the foreground of this image.

85mm f/1.8

Again, Canon makes a faster lens – the practically legendary 85mm f/1.2 – but it's very specialist and does not focus as fast as the cheaper and more better allrounder f/1.8.

IMG_1125 

ISO 640, f/1.8, 1/125s. Shot in RAW and processed to create the "high key" effect. You can see here the sharpness in the eyelashes contrasted with the ghostly out of focus ears, hair, etc (the model is part submerged in the water).

So no conclusion here – there isn't anything unique about the 5d Mark II compared to other full frame cameras in this respect, but it is an important point and one I wanted to share and illustrate through a few examples. More soon…

Related posts:

  1. EOS Canon 5D Mark II and Olympus OM Zuiko adapter I've been building a collection of Olympus OM Zuiko lenses...
  2. Zeiss 85mm f/1.4 ZE Planar T* Lens (for Canon EOS) Review The name Zeiss needs no introduction in the field of...
  3. Olympus OM Zuiko 135mm f/2.8 Lens Review (with Canon EOS) I recently wrote about an adapter I bought for...
  4. Olympus E-P1 Review Diary – Part 11 – C Mount Glass and Samples VII One of the most compelling advantages of the micro four...
  5. Have the Zeiss Makro-Planar T* 100mm f/2 ZE, will review I have a copy of the above lens for review…...

Related posts brought to you by Yet Another Related Posts Plugin.

Bookmark and Share
1 Star2 Stars3 Stars4 Stars5 Stars (No Ratings Yet)
Loading ... Loading ...

8 Comments »

  • mike said:

    this portion of the review is a little unclear. exactly what advantage does a full frame sensor give for depth of field that a cropped sensor does not? In your photo with the feet, would it not have been the same if someone had shot that with say, a 40D/50 f1.4?

  • Lawrence Ripsher said:

    Hi Mike…

    Wikipedia puts it as follows:

    "To a first approximation, DOF is inversely proportional to format size. More precisely, if photographs with the same final-image size are taken in two different camera formats at the same subject distance with the same field of view and f-number, the DOF is, to a first approximation, inversely proportional to the format size. Strictly speaking, this is true only when the subject distance is large in comparison with the focal length and small in comparison with the hyperfocal distance, for both formats, but it nonetheless is generally useful for comparing results obtained from different formats."

    My way of describing it is as follows. The way it works is that if you put a 50 f/1.4 lens on a 40d, then you get the same effective view as a 80mm lens on a full frame sensor (50mm x 1.6x crop). However, it's not the same as a 80mm f/1.4 field of view… You have to multiply the f number also. (so in other words f/2.2ish).

    So basically, to get the same depth of field as a 50mm f/1.4 on a full frame lens, you'd have to find a 28 – 35mm ish lens with a f number of around 1. Which does not exist.

    Now you can of course change your position to change the field of view but is a different topic.

    To contrast this (which makes the illustration easier), compact digital cameras have tiny sensors. That has a magnifying effect on their focal lengths but also dramatically increases the depth of field (i.e. less shallow). Great for landscapes, bad for portraits.

    The short of this is … full frame = more shallow depth of field.

  • Ed Cheung said:

    Hi Larry:

    Thanks for your thoughts on the 5D MKII.

    Just wondering if you're still using the 1D MKIII? I have a 1D MKIII and would like to complement it with the 5D MKII.

    btw, I'm up in Vancouver, BC, somewhat of a neighbour. You certainly picked a good time to move over (don't you just love the snow :-)

    Love you sports work.

    cheers,

  • Lawrence Ripsher said:

    Hey Ed –

    I definitely still use the 1D Mark III although it's role has been reduced to a more specialist one. Previously it was what I considered to be the best all-round Canon body, but the 5D Mark II is replacing it from that position for my uses. I'll write more on this in an upcoming post.

    I plan to get up to Vancouver some time next year. Will check your galleries for photographic ideas and inspiration before I do!

    Cheers,

    Lawrence

  • Guilaume said:

    Hello Lawrence,

    Very good review.

    I was wondering which AF sensor did you use to get the shot of your dog with the 24mm lens at f/1.4 ? Central one with focus-lock-recompose or another one ?

    Kind regards,

    Guillaume

  • Lawrence Ripsher said:

    Hi Guillaume,

    Center focus point and recompose. I usually start that way as it is the most sensitive AF point – and usually recommend this practice also. For subjects like this, I start to move the AF point off center if I start to take multiple / many shots of the same scene (with the same composition).

  • Guillaume said:

    Hi Lawrence,

    Thanks for the answer. Actually I am interested in the out of focus issues with the focus-recompose technic, especially when shooting with tiny DOC.

    I thought that kind of shot is nearly impossible with the lock-recompose method … but your shot seems tack sharp despite the tiny DOC. How did you do that ?

    Thanks

    Guillaume

  • Lawrence Ripsher said:

    Hi Guillaume, so long as you don't change the distance of the camera from the subject then recomposing after focus lock is fine. This becomes harder to do as the DOF gets more shallow but should only really be a problem when shooting wide open on macros, etc – I've never found this an issue under normal shooting circumstances.

    Cheers, Lawrence

Leave your response!

Add your comment below, or trackback from your own site. You can also subscribe to these comments via RSS.

Be nice. Keep it clean. Stay on topic. No spam.